Installation Time
(approx) 1 Hour
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys. Adam here with americanmuscle.com. Today we're taking a quick look at and installing the Injector Dynamics high impedance 1050X injectors, available for the 2011 to 2018 Mustang GT. Now if you're the owner of that late S197 or S550 V8 five-liter Mustang, you might be reaching your limit for stock injectors or you might be just running out of fuel flow for your aftermarket ones. Now this one, in particular, is for those seriously high horsepower Mustang. I'm talking about borderline spaceship material. This one, in particular, the 1050X is boasting a 1065CC per minute or cubic centimeter per minute flow rate which is the equivalent of about 101.4 pounds per hour.A 101-pound injector to put it more simply is gonna be for the Mustangs pushing 1,300 to around 1,400 horsepower. Now if you're pushing upwards of 1,400 horsepower again there's a lot of options out there that are just not going to be providing enough fuel to support that high horsepower application. Now that 1,300 to 1,400 number is typically for naturally aspirated builds. If you're pushing forced induction you'll be right around 1,100 to 1,200 horsepower. Now that particularly is not an exact science but there is a formula out there to make it one. Now without boring you too much, I do want to give you that math formula there to determine what injector size would be good for your Mustang. Now that injector fuel rate is basically going to equal your engine's horsepower times your brake specific fuel consumption divided by the number of injectors, eight for the eight cylinders, times your injector's duty cycle, essentially 85%. So at the end of the day, it's your horsepower times your brak specific fuel consumption divided by number of injectors times 0.85 for your 85% duty cycle. I know that sounds difficult but if you have those numbers to plug in you can essentially determine which injectors will be right for you. Again this one naturally aspirated between 1,300 to 1,400 horsepower, forced induction setup's about 1,100 to 1,200.Now this one, in particular, does have corrosion resistant internals and if you're maxing out on E85 this does support that. And again this one here is just a really high horsepower application. Now if you're looking to pick them up a little over 1,000 bucks for the set of eight that you see here, this option here from Injector Dynamics does provide 5% higher output without sacrificing flow activity and it does provide stability up to 10 bar with stronger magnetic circuits. Now this one does have a replaceable inlet filter and it has those corrosion resistant internals. Now it does come with US car connectivity but there are other adapters to adapt your specific setup. Now I think this goes without saying but anytime you upgrade your injectors and you're going with a higher fuel rate you're going to need a tune so be sure you're working with your tuner to make sure that gets done properly.Now the installation, I am giving it one out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. Swapping out all eight injectors really does not take very much mechanical knowledge, doesn't take any modifications, no special tools required, simple hand tools will do the trick. So one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It will take you about an hour from start to finish. Now I'm gonna show you guys how that gets done so let's get to it.Tools needed for this install will be a flathead screwdriver, eight-millimeter deep socket, 10-millimeter deep socket, 17-millimeter or a 15-millimeter deep socket depending on your strut tower brace hardware, extension, quarter-inch ratchet, three-eighths ratchet or a cordless impact. Before we start the install, I just want to make a quick note that if you're installing 101-pound injectors it's probably on a pretty aftermarket heavy setup, heavily modded motor, so your install can vary depending on your specific setup. The install that we're working on today is just pretty much a general outline of what the install will look like. It's typically about the same so we just wanna give you the general idea of how that would work. Now to start things off I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter socket, remove the negative cable on our battery then we're going to pop off our strut tower brace and then, of course, the engine cover.For the strut tower brace here we're gonna disconnect this brown plastic clip here on the wiring. From here we can take our deep socket, loosen up and remove the two nuts on both sides.At this point, we can just snap our engine cover off which essentially just pops right into place. So there's two on the front, two in the back here and you can set this aside. At this point, we can take our 10-millimeter socket and we can pop off the four nuts holding on our heater hose support brackets. With those nuts removed you'll be able to move this hose out of place, pull the bracket off and then the insulator foam.We can slide this heater hose back. Gonna lift this line out of place and then remove that bracket underneath. Now that we can set that aside just now over top of the manifold. Setting both of those brackets aside, you'll be able to remove the foam insulator just by pulling up on it. Set those aside as well. At this point, you can take your 10-millimeter socket and an extension and remove the bolts holding on your fuel rails. As far as fuel going through your fuel lines here, we don't have to particularly worry about that because we've already disconnected the fuel pump under our rear seats. We were just doing some intake manifold testing so we've taken care of that and relieved all the pressure from our fuel lines. Now for you guys at home you're gonna wanna make sure you're disconnecting that pump, stalling out your engine, making sure it runs, relieves all the pressure and empties out these lines and then you'll be good to disconnect that if you need to. Since we've already taken care of that we're just going to move on to removing the fuel lines and disconnecting our injectors. All right. We got our 10-millimeter socket and extension and I'll top off all four of these.All right. Now we can pop the injectors right out of place. Just pull backward on them and they'll pop right up. Once you get them up a little bit you'll have a little bit of easier time accessing their connectors. You just wanna disconnect all eight electrical connectors on the side of your actual injectors. So I'm gonna pinch and pull them straight back.And that way you got a little bit more room to work with here.I always get a rag here on the end of this line just catching any small excess dripping of gas. But we're gonna lift up this fuel line. All right. Now we can bring this over to the table. Now that we have our fuel rails on the table with our factory injector still installed let's get to work taking those things off. Now this is not a hard process to do. All you're really doing is rotating them out of their retainer seats just enough so that you can you can see when the clip is in place there. So you wanna get that clip out and then you can rotate and pop them straight back. Once you get all of these off, popping in your new injectors is gonna be pretty simple. Obviously, they're going to seat the same way here. They look about the same, the only difference being that retainer clip. Your factory injector has that retainer or clip sitting on the edge here. Your new one from Injector Dynamics is not going to have that. But that's all right. We're gonna take our new injectors and press them right down into place. You just wanna make sure they're rotated just about the same as your old ones were and then you can move on to the rest of them. Moving on to the next one here, we're gonna do the same thing. Rotate our injector out of place, pop that one straight out.Now, when you're installing your new injectors if you are having trouble getting them into place you can use some lubricant around the O-ring seal here at the end that will seat in the fuel rail. We're having a pretty easy time getting them in. But in your case, if you are having trouble you can of course use lubricant on the end of them. So we got two of these down, let's knock out the other six and then we'll get it installed back on our motor.All right. Now that we have all eight of our Injector Dynamics seated properly in our fuel rails it's time to get them installed on our Mustang. We can grab our new fuel rails and seat them properly in the manifold. You wanna make sure you got all your heater hose lines out of the way. And you'll feel them pop right into place. Once you feel them seated, you can take your electrical connectors and plug them right into the side of the injectors.All right. Now we could take our fuel rail bolts, slide them right back into their factory spots. You might have a few things in the way with these heater hoses and you can, you know, manipulate these however you need to, pull them back. Toss these in the other side. Now I'm going to use the extension and socket only and just tighten them down by hand here and then we'll go back with our impact. Just give them a tap to get them tight.And now we can go back with our ratchet, tighten these down.From here, you do not wanna forget these. You can slide back on your insulators. They are marked R and L of course, right for your passenger, left for your driver's side.From here you can set your heater hose bracket into place. Again they're marked R and L, right side over in your passenger. Now after the bracket on the left side of your driver's side you wanna make sure you're putting this line back into place, that gets bolted down with that bracket. All right. Tighten them all down by hand. Then you can grab your ratchet again with your 10-mill, tighten them down with the ratchet.All right. Set your heater hose back into place on that bracket on both sides. From here take your fuel line, reconnect it to your fuel rail. Now we can pop our engine cover back on then our strut tower brace and of course top it off with reconnecting the negative cable on our battery.All right. With the negative cable tightened back down on our battery, that's going to complete our install. The final steps however that we're not showing here is obviously reconnect the fuel pump under the rear seats and make sure you have a proper tune after working with your personal tuner to make sure that it's installed on the vehicle before you hit the road. Again if you're looking for the Injector Dynamics high impedance 1050X injectors for the 2011 to 2018 GT make sure you're running an extremely high horsepower Mustang, over 1,000 horsepower, and you're in need of that 1065CC per minute or 101-pound injector like we have here on our 2015 GT. With all that said and done, you can get your set for your own Mustang right here at americanmuscle.com.
Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation
Fitment:
Injector Dynamics 1050.60.14.14B.8
CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Installation Info
Installation Time
(approx) 1 Hour
Difficulty Level:
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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